- 1). Measure the frame and door of your pocket-door kit. This information is typically available with the mounting instructions packed with your door. You will also need to measure the height of the pocket frame kit.
- 2). Mark the height and width of the opening needed to install your door. This will vary from door to door, but typically will be approximately 83 inches high by 1 ½ times the width of the door itself. Double check with the retailer or door manufacturer, if needed, to get exact requirements for the opening size.
- 3). Cut the drywall along this line and remove from the studs to expose the frame. Cut off any studs in this area, 3 ½ inches higher than the required height of the opening, with a reciprocating saw, and use a hammer to knock them loose from the base plate of the wall.
- 4). Mark and cut the base plate on the floor at either side of the opening, 1 ½ inches out from the inside of the finished opening measurement, using a circular saw. Remove this with a pry bar.
- 5). Cut two studs to fit between the top and bottom plates of the wall. Install one at each side of the opening--nail through the end of these studs, on an angle, into the top and bottom plates. Set these with their inside faces 1 1/2 inches out from the inside measurement of the finished opening, making it even with the end of the wall base plate. These are your king studs. Cut two studs to the inside height of the opening and nail one to the face of each king stud. These are your jack studs.
- 6). Measure between the king studs and cut two two-by-four lumber to fit between them. Cut a piece of half-inch plywood 3 ½ inches wide, the same length as the two-by-fours you cut. Sandwich the plywood between the two-by-fours. Glue and nail the three pieces together to form the header.
- 7). Position the header with the edges of the two-by-fours and plywood down, on top of the jack studs. Nail the header to the king studs and to the ends of the studs you cut earlier.
- 8). Lay out the pocket door frame. These are very different depending on the manufacturer--assembly should not be attempted without the diagram from the manufacturer. Typically, they will have a four- sided metal frame that bolts together at the corners. The top is a square track from which the wheels of your door will hang. The side the door closes to will be faced with a wooden jamb. The side that stands vertically inside the wall with be a U-shaped channel. The bottom piece is typically a flat plate. Bolt these together with the supplied hardware.
- 9). Add the half studs every 16 inches. These are metal pieces with a wood insert that screw to the face of the frame on both sides to allow the drywall to be attached. Use the provided hardware and make sure to use the correct holes, so that the frame is square.
- 10
Stand the pocket door frame upright and drive screws through the track channel above, the flate plate into the floor, and the two sides against the studs of the frame. Use three-inch drywall screws in the provided holes. Use a level and shim the top and sides away from the wall frame as needed. Consult the manufacturer's instructions for specific details. - 11
Attach the two carriages to the top edge of the door with the supplied screws and a drill. There are typically four screws for each carriage. Adjust the nut in the center of each carriage by twisting them all the way clockwise. Lift the door up into the channel at the top of the door, with the bottom tipped out and allow the wheels to rest in the track. Turn the nuts on the carriages as needed to level the door. - 12
Install drywall to the face of the frame, cutting it to match to the cut edges of the original. Use one-inch screws to attach to the half studs in the pocket door frame. Apply mud to the seam between the old drywall and the new. Cover the gap with fiberglass drywall tape and cover the tape with a second layer of mud, applied with a wide knife. - 13
Cut door casing to fit the sides of the pocket door frame. Cut the 45-degree miter so that the lower corner on each side is even with the bottom edge of the drywall above the door. Cut the top piece with a 45-degree miter on each side of the door, so that it fits between the vertical side pieces. Nail to the pocket door frame with a finish nail every 8 to 10 inches.
SHARE
