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How to Make a Hidden Hem

    Machine Sewing a Blind Hem

    • 1). Follow your sewing machine manual instructions to attach your blind stitch foot or blind hem presser foot to your machine. (See References 1 and 2)

    • 2). Determine the finished length you want your garment to be, and how many inches you need to shorten it. (See References 1 and 2)

    • 3). Fold the raw edge of your fabric over by 1 inch, so the wrong sides of the fabric meet and iron the fabric in place. Fold the fabric again, subtracting 1 inch from the total width of the hem. For example, if you need to shorten the garment by three inches, make this fold 2 inches wide. Pin the hem all the way around to keep the fabric in position and iron in place. (See References 1 and 2)

    • 4). Unfold the fabric while keeping the 1-inch, raw-finished section still folded. With the wrong side facing upwards, use the second fold line as a guide. Lift your material by that fold line and bring it up to the folded raw edge, overlapping the material until only 1/8-inch of the folded raw edge remains visible. Do this all the way around the hem, pinning the fabric in place, then ironing the hem flat. (See References 1 and 2)

    • 5). Change the settings on your sewing machine to the blind hem stitch with a 3-inch stitch length. Place the fabric under the presser foot, wrong-side up with the folded edge against the blind hem stitch flange guide. Turn the handwheel towards you and lower the needle into the fabric, piercing the very edge of the fabric fold. Sew slowly, keeping the folded material alongside the guide. The straight stitches should run along the hem's edge, while the zig-zag stitch picks up the back single layer of fabric. (See References 1 and 2)

    • 6). Turn the fabric over to the right-side and press the hem flat. The stitching should lie flat and be barely visible. (See References 1 and 2)

    Hand Sewing a Blind Hem

    • 1). Determine the finished length you want your garment to be and how many inches you need to shorten it. (See References 3 and 4)

    • 2). Fold the raw edge of your fabric over by 1 inch so the wrong sides of the fabric meet and iron the fabric in place. Fold the fabric again, subtracting 1 inch from the total width of the hem. For example, if you need to shorten the garment by three inches, make this fold 2 inches wide. Pin the hem all the way around to keep the fabric in position and iron in place. (See References 3 and 4)

    • 3). Lay the garment inside-out. Begin hand-stitching the item starting at a seam along the hemline. Insert the needle up and through the top of the folded hem and pierce the back single layer of fabric right above it (this will be the stitching you see on the front of the garment), Catch only a small portion of the material, pulling the needle through and maintaining a consistent tension. Too much tension will cause the material to pucker, while too little tension will cause the thread to be lax and the hem to sag. (See References 3 and 4)

    • 4). Work your way around the garments' hem, alternating stitches between the top of the folded fabric and the back single layer of fabric until the hem is complete. Tie a knot to complete the hem. (See References 3 and 4)

    • 5). Turn the garment right-side out and iron the hem flat.

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