- 1). Remove half the brake fluid from the master cylinder using a brake fluid suction baster. Discard the old fluid and replace the cap on the master cylinder.
- 2). Loosen the rear lug nuts slightly with a lug nut socket and a breaker bar.
- 3). Lift the Silverado with a jack and support it onto jack stands placed under the rear axle.
- 4). Finish removing the lug nuts and then remove the wheels.
- 5). Place the medium pry bar into the front window of the caliper as a lever. Pry the backing plate of the outboard pad inward to compress the caliper piston until it bottoms out in the bore.
- 6). Remove the two caliper-mounting bolts using a box-end wrench and then remove the caliper. Rest it on top of the rear knuckle or use a hook to hang it so it does not hang from the hydraulic brake hose.
- 7). Remove the brake pads from the caliper-mounting bracket. Pry them out of the bracket with the pry bar if necessary.
- 8). Pry the old pad clips off of the caliper mounting bracket and discard.
- 9). Install the new clips onto the mounting bracket and use an acid brush to apply a liberal coat of anti-seize compound. Try not to get any on the rotor. Use a shop rag to wipe any compound off the rotor is necessary.
- 10
Place the new pads onto the clips inside the bracket. Be sure the dual-wear sensor pad is on the outside and the single sensor pad is on the inside. - 11
Replace the caliper and caliper mounting bolts. Tighten the bolts to 80-foot lbs. with a torque wrench and socket. - 12
Repeat the pad replacement for the other rear wheel. - 13
Replace the wheels and lug nuts and torque the lug nuts between 120- to 145-foot lbs. (depending on the weight class of the Silverado) with a torque wrench and lug nut socket. - 14
Pump the foot brake pedal to seat the new pads against the rotor and then refill the master cylinder with new brake fluid.
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