Growing Celery from Seed

• 1). Calculate the date 10 to 12 weeks before the anticipated final frost in your area. Your local extension office or the National Climatic Data Center (see Resources) can provide this information if you do not have it already.
  
  
• 2). Soak seeds overnight to remove germination inhibitors. If the seed soaks for more than a day, change the water daily.
  
  
• 3). Fill starter pots or a tray with two-thirds compost and one-third sand.
  
  
• 4). Sprinkle seeds onto the surface of the soil, keeping rows 1 inch apart if you're using a tray. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of sand and a layer of moist sphagnum peat moss or burlap.
  
  
• 5). Remove the peat moss or burlap when the seeds germinate.
  
  
• 6). Transplant the strongest seedlings into individual pots when they are 2 inches tall. Begin moving them outside to a shady spot each day, increasing sun exposure daily, for 10 days before the final frost date. Transplant them into the garden, spacing plants 6 to 8 inches apart, after the final frost date passes.
  
  

Saving Seed

• 1). Select the strongest plants in the fall to save for seed.
  
  
• 2). Dig up the plants, including the root system, and store them in a location that will reach near-freezing temperatures over the winter and hold a high level of humidity.
  
  
• 3). Cover the roots in soil and the stems and leaves with straw.
  
  
• 4). Remove dead or rotted stems and leaves in the spring and transplant them into the garden after the final frost date has passed. Space plants 2 feet apart.
  
  
• 5). Cut off the flower heads when the seeds turn brown and dry them indoors on a sheet of canvas.
  
  
• 6). Rub the flower heads to remove the seeds.
  
  
• 7). Place the seeds on a screen small enough that the seeds don't fall through but large enough to allow dust and debris to separate from the seed.