Sodding has definite advantages over other methods of establishing a new lawn,
i.e. the instant transformation of your lawn to a new tailored look for your
continuing use and enjoyment. It can be done anytime throughout the year except
when the ground is frozen or covered with snow. When sodding is completed and
the grass well rooted your lawn will only need proper care and will last indefinitely.
A soil test is always advisable. Your county extension agent can get
this done for a small fee. His report will tell you how much lime (for lower pH
soils) and the amount and kinds of fertilizer your soil may need, and the frequency
of application. If you can't get this done before you sod, get it done after
planting, and follow the recommended program on lime and fertilizer. Most soils
are low in pH and lime is important to raise low pH soils to an ideal pH of between
6-7. High pH soils use sulphur to lower pH instead of lime. Winrock Zoysia likes
most soils, whether sandy, silty or clay based.
Grade the lawn to a smooth surface sloping slightly away
from the house. A slope of one foot to 50 linear feet is usually adequate for
drainage. Remember to smooth off the surface as much as possible so your lawn
will be smooth and will mow without scalping. Steep slopes are difficult to water
and mow.
Plow, disc, till or otherwise loosen the soil about 6 inches
deep. Remove rocks, sticks, and clods that are near the surface. The lime (or sulphur
if high pH) and fertilizer needed should then be applied and mixed in the loosened
soil. If you don't have soil test results, about 2 pounds of lime per 1,000 square
feet is usually adequate.
Use fertilizer called for in your soil test results. If no soil test was made, we
suggest 2 pounds of 10-20-10 or 13-13-13 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. Both the
lime and fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed into dry soil before sodding or irrigating.
Sod normally comes in strips 18 inches by 24 inches, and is easily laid. Lay as close
together as possible. Stagger the lateral joints if desired and butt the ends close
together. If available, roll with a light roller after laying to firm the pads against
the soil.
As soon as the sod is laid, water until water is soaking
into the ground beneath. For the next two to three weeks repeat heavy watering every
two or three days. Be sure the soil does not dry out during the rooting period.
Apply 1-inch of water every week or 10 days
either by natural rainfall or supplemental irrigation. At least an inch of water
every week is needed during the hot summer growing season. It is best to apply water
in the morning. In winter or when the sod is dormant you do not need to water unless
the ground becomes dry from drought. Most problems we see after the Zoysiagrass has
become established stem from over-watering or over-fertilizing.
A healthy mature stand of Zoysiagrass will choke out weeds
on its own. However, a first year application of pre-emergent herbicide is a good
idea in the early Spring or early Fall.
i.e. the instant transformation of your lawn to a new tailored look for your
continuing use and enjoyment. It can be done anytime throughout the year except
when the ground is frozen or covered with snow. When sodding is completed and
the grass well rooted your lawn will only need proper care and will last indefinitely.
A soil test is always advisable. Your county extension agent can get
this done for a small fee. His report will tell you how much lime (for lower pH
soils) and the amount and kinds of fertilizer your soil may need, and the frequency
of application. If you can't get this done before you sod, get it done after
planting, and follow the recommended program on lime and fertilizer. Most soils
are low in pH and lime is important to raise low pH soils to an ideal pH of between
6-7. High pH soils use sulphur to lower pH instead of lime. Winrock Zoysia likes
most soils, whether sandy, silty or clay based.
Grade the lawn to a smooth surface sloping slightly away
from the house. A slope of one foot to 50 linear feet is usually adequate for
drainage. Remember to smooth off the surface as much as possible so your lawn
will be smooth and will mow without scalping. Steep slopes are difficult to water
and mow.
Plow, disc, till or otherwise loosen the soil about 6 inches
deep. Remove rocks, sticks, and clods that are near the surface. The lime (or sulphur
if high pH) and fertilizer needed should then be applied and mixed in the loosened
soil. If you don't have soil test results, about 2 pounds of lime per 1,000 square
feet is usually adequate.
Use fertilizer called for in your soil test results. If no soil test was made, we
suggest 2 pounds of 10-20-10 or 13-13-13 fertilizer per 1,000 square feet. Both the
lime and fertilizer should be thoroughly mixed into dry soil before sodding or irrigating.
Sod normally comes in strips 18 inches by 24 inches, and is easily laid. Lay as close
together as possible. Stagger the lateral joints if desired and butt the ends close
together. If available, roll with a light roller after laying to firm the pads against
the soil.
As soon as the sod is laid, water until water is soaking
into the ground beneath. For the next two to three weeks repeat heavy watering every
two or three days. Be sure the soil does not dry out during the rooting period.
Apply 1-inch of water every week or 10 days
either by natural rainfall or supplemental irrigation. At least an inch of water
every week is needed during the hot summer growing season. It is best to apply water
in the morning. In winter or when the sod is dormant you do not need to water unless
the ground becomes dry from drought. Most problems we see after the Zoysiagrass has
become established stem from over-watering or over-fertilizing.
A healthy mature stand of Zoysiagrass will choke out weeds
on its own. However, a first year application of pre-emergent herbicide is a good
idea in the early Spring or early Fall.
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