Solid hardwood flooring installation should not be complex.
With hard work and perseverance, you can also do this project on your own.
Getting Started
With hard work and perseverance, you can also do this project on your own.
Getting Started
- Begin by bringing the flooring materials to the room.
The wood planks need to be acclimatized to the temperature as well as the humidity in your home.
This acclimatization must be done three days in advance so that problems such as warping will be reduced. - Next, you need to check the subfloor's level of moisture.
See if the moisture level in your home is not included on the manufacturer's recommendation.
If it's not, then ask for professional help during the installation. - As you have prepped the subfloor, sweep the floor surface.
- Check the planks for any defects and early signs of warping.
Normally, there is about 5% of the boards that are unusable.
Once again, ask for assistance if the defective planks go more than 5%. - Have a moisture barrier installed as well as an underlayment.
Typically, the underlayment must be rolled out in the same direction where the wood is going to be installed.
- Find the straightest boards first and have them laid on the first row.
Make sure that the tongue side faces the room. - Use a tapping block so that the tongue-and-groove system will not be damaged.
- Use spacers between the wall and the flooring to make way for the expansion gap.
- Nail down the first few planks using your hammer and nail set.
- Have the nail holes pre-drilled every half a foot.
Begin with 1-3 inches from the plank's ends then a half inch from the groove. - Have the nails driven into the pre-drilled holes and be sure to countersink them.
- Fill the holes later with putty.
Make sure the putty color matches the floor color. - When you're onto the second row, be sure to fit the groove onto the first row's plank tongues.
- Using a dead blow hammer, carefully tap the tapping block against the floor.
This should ensure a tight fit. - Install the second row making sure that the ends are no less than six inches apart from the initial row.
This is a good way to strengthen the flooring while giving it a staggered look. - Cut the flooring by laying the plank on its face then cutting with a circular saw.
- Check that you are using the correct blade in cutting the floor.
- Make some room for the expansion gap.
Next, face-nail the next row just as you did with the current row. - Keep repeating the process till you are able to use the pneumatic nail gun.
- Install the rest of the floor by mixing the planks.
This is so the floor will have a random pattern. - Dry fit some rows before you have them installed.
You can check how the flooring will look once it is permanently installed. - Be sure to follow the pneumatic nailer manual for blind nailing.
Usually, you are required to hold the nailer against the plank's tongue then hit it using the hammer. - Ascertain that the nailer comes with a protective boot to keep the floors from being damaged.
- Check the PSI (pounds per square inch) recommendations for the nailer.
- Have the nails spaced at 1-3 inches from the ends and coming from the tongue side, at least 6-8 inches.
- Maintain the expansion gap at all times.
- Cut the planks for columns and vents.
You are free to cut the pieces to fit them to your floor.
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