We all encounter these two most common problems, which trigger deformed or very slow growth.
1.
Insufficient lighting or leggy development, the plant grows slowly or not at all and planted in a shady spot.
It may have been a sunny spot when planted originally, but now, with other plant material matured, the plant is no longer getting sufficient sunlight to develop normally.
Development is weak and leggy, and flowering is poor or non-existent.
The leaves might be dark green and bigger than normal or a pale green and spindly.
The oldest leaves might drop off.
No indicators of disease or insect pests exists.
All flowering plants, particularly chrysanthemum must have full sun for greatest development.
Plants contain chlorophyll, which utilizes sunlight to create energy.
This energy is utilized to create foods for plant growth and development.
Plants differ in the amounts of sun light they require to develop vigorously.
Some plants require a number of hours of direct sunlight everyday, other types of plants thrive in shaded places.
Plants that receives much less sun light than they require, cannot produce enough foods for its requirements.
Therefore, the plant grows slowly, becomes weak and leggy.
Some chrysanthemum varieties develop tall and leggy, which is normal, while other types are suppose to have a short, dense appearance.
Do your homework, learn about the lighting needs for your plants.
If your plant is not receiving sufficient sunlight, transplant it to a sunnier location and select a plant that requires much less light for the spot you took the original plant from.
Chrysanthemums which are leggy and are not meant to be, can be pinched back to encourage bushier development as long as they have not yet created flower buds.
The next year, when new plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, very carefully pinch or nip away the youthful growing tips just above a leaf.
The tiny side bud located in between this leaf and the stem will develop into a brand new branch.
Every two weeks, pinch back all of the new developing growing points which have been formed as a result of the prior pinching.
Stop pinching back the plant by August to let flower buds develop.
Think about replanting with mum varieties that grow low normally.
2.
Mealybugs.
White, oval insects as much as 1/4 inch in length which form white, cottony masses on the stems and leaves of a plant.
Leaves might be deformed and withered.
The infested leaves are frequently shiny and sticky or covered with a sooty mold.
Ants might be present as well.
A number of flowering plants, particularly begonia and coleus are very susceptible to mealybugs.
Mealybugs harm vegetation by sucking the sap, which in turn leads to leaf distortion and death.
The adult female mealybug will produce young or deposit her eggs in white, fluffy masses of wax.
The immature mealybugs, known as nymphs, are really active and crawl about on the plant.
Soon after, the nymphs start to feed, they excrete filaments of white cottony substance that cover their bodies, giving them their cottony look.
As they mature their mobility decreases.
Mealybugs can not digest all of the sugar within the sap, and they excrete the excess in a fluid known as honeydew, which coats the leaves.
Ants may feed on the honeydew.
Mealybugs are spread by the wind, which blow egg masses and nymphs from plant to plant.
Ants might also move them, or nymphs might crawl to nearby vegetation.
Mealybug eggs and some adults can survive the winter in warm climates.
Spring re-infestations in colder places come from infested new vegetation which already exists in the garden.
Spray infested plants with a Rose and Flower insect killer or a Systemic insect killer but make sure you do not use a systemic on begonias.
Spray at intervals of 7-10 days till the mealybugs are gone.
Gently hose down the infected plant to knock away mealybugs and wash away the honeydew.
Get rid of and destroy severely infested leaves and vegetation.
1.
Insufficient lighting or leggy development, the plant grows slowly or not at all and planted in a shady spot.
It may have been a sunny spot when planted originally, but now, with other plant material matured, the plant is no longer getting sufficient sunlight to develop normally.
Development is weak and leggy, and flowering is poor or non-existent.
The leaves might be dark green and bigger than normal or a pale green and spindly.
The oldest leaves might drop off.
No indicators of disease or insect pests exists.
All flowering plants, particularly chrysanthemum must have full sun for greatest development.
Plants contain chlorophyll, which utilizes sunlight to create energy.
This energy is utilized to create foods for plant growth and development.
Plants differ in the amounts of sun light they require to develop vigorously.
Some plants require a number of hours of direct sunlight everyday, other types of plants thrive in shaded places.
Plants that receives much less sun light than they require, cannot produce enough foods for its requirements.
Therefore, the plant grows slowly, becomes weak and leggy.
Some chrysanthemum varieties develop tall and leggy, which is normal, while other types are suppose to have a short, dense appearance.
Do your homework, learn about the lighting needs for your plants.
If your plant is not receiving sufficient sunlight, transplant it to a sunnier location and select a plant that requires much less light for the spot you took the original plant from.
Chrysanthemums which are leggy and are not meant to be, can be pinched back to encourage bushier development as long as they have not yet created flower buds.
The next year, when new plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, very carefully pinch or nip away the youthful growing tips just above a leaf.
The tiny side bud located in between this leaf and the stem will develop into a brand new branch.
Every two weeks, pinch back all of the new developing growing points which have been formed as a result of the prior pinching.
Stop pinching back the plant by August to let flower buds develop.
Think about replanting with mum varieties that grow low normally.
2.
Mealybugs.
White, oval insects as much as 1/4 inch in length which form white, cottony masses on the stems and leaves of a plant.
Leaves might be deformed and withered.
The infested leaves are frequently shiny and sticky or covered with a sooty mold.
Ants might be present as well.
A number of flowering plants, particularly begonia and coleus are very susceptible to mealybugs.
Mealybugs harm vegetation by sucking the sap, which in turn leads to leaf distortion and death.
The adult female mealybug will produce young or deposit her eggs in white, fluffy masses of wax.
The immature mealybugs, known as nymphs, are really active and crawl about on the plant.
Soon after, the nymphs start to feed, they excrete filaments of white cottony substance that cover their bodies, giving them their cottony look.
As they mature their mobility decreases.
Mealybugs can not digest all of the sugar within the sap, and they excrete the excess in a fluid known as honeydew, which coats the leaves.
Ants may feed on the honeydew.
Mealybugs are spread by the wind, which blow egg masses and nymphs from plant to plant.
Ants might also move them, or nymphs might crawl to nearby vegetation.
Mealybug eggs and some adults can survive the winter in warm climates.
Spring re-infestations in colder places come from infested new vegetation which already exists in the garden.
Spray infested plants with a Rose and Flower insect killer or a Systemic insect killer but make sure you do not use a systemic on begonias.
Spray at intervals of 7-10 days till the mealybugs are gone.
Gently hose down the infected plant to knock away mealybugs and wash away the honeydew.
Get rid of and destroy severely infested leaves and vegetation.
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