Advice on Machine Embroidering on a Thin Fabric

Stabilizer Sheets

Most embroiderers follow a rule of thumb when selecting stabilizer sheets. The heavier the fabric weight, the lighter the sheet and the lighter the fabric weight, the thicker the sheet. However, another challenge presents itself for thin fabrics. Stabilizer sheets are generally positioned on the backside of the textile, causing it to show through delicate or transparent fabric. Although most embroiderers use tear-away stabilizers, which are torn around the edges, they also often cause fabric stretching or distortion. Use cut-away stabilizers, which are available in soft and sheer textures, or poly-mesh to reduce the risk of puckering or ghost outlines around the design.

Using the wrong size needle with delicate fabrics always results in visible puncture marks. Eliminate this frustration by selecting the appropriate needle size for the fabric type. Refer to the fabric and needle size chart in your embroidery machine’s manual. Needle sizes are available with different needle points, which affect the way the needle penetrates the fabric. For instance, flat-shank needles have a regular size eye and are often interchangeable with home sewing and embroidery machines. This needle type is generally available with a sharp or ballpoint, depending on the fabric type. Sharp needles have a narrow shaft, ideal for piercing through tightly woven delicate textiles and ballpoint needles for delicate knit fabrics.

Changing the needle size automatically requires adjusting the top thread tension. The needle size and tension work hand-in-hand along with other components, such as the backing, thread and stabilizer sheet. Always refer to your machine’s manual for recommended tension guide charts prior to adjusting or stitching.

Using all-purpose sewing thread for embroidery projects always leads to thread breaks, skipped stitches and often broken needles. Sewing thread, generally used for stitching apparel, has a different body structure than embroidery thread. This thread type has a slightly thicker appearance and can withstand high-density stitching to fill in embroidered sections. Manufacturers, such as Robison Anton, Madeira or Floriani, produce different thread sizes and types, such as polyester, cotton, rayon and silk. Read thread labels prior to your purchase to distinguish embroidery machine thread from hand embroidery thread, which have significant quality differences.